Cycling around in circles: Day 16: National Park

Forgive me if today's entry is a bit longer than usual, but I will try my best to do credit to the most amazing day - one of many here in New Zealand - but a day I'm never likely to forget, just because it was so special in many ways.

The Norwegian (!) weather service got it absolutely right this morning, contrary to the cantankerous, grumpy, opinionated and stubborn git who runs the backpackers I stayed in last night. The place was great. He wasn't. It poured all night and right up to 10:30 am. You couldn't see 200 metres ahead of you, never mind any volcanoes. But right on cue the rain stopped and as I lingered over a lazy breakfast in the company of a couple of Czech guys who also stayed there last night it slowly cleared.

After a bit of reading and a long coffee in a café in National Park village it was time to kit up, stick the car round the rear of the café and get on the bike.

The views of Mt. Ruapehu and "Mt. Doom" that awaited me were stunning.

After an easy 10 kms ride out of National Park, you turn right and start the 13 kms climb up to the ski station. It starts fairly gently, gradually increasing in steepness through 4% & 5% to about 6-7% as you pass the Chalet Tongarika after about 6 kms.

From there the road starts to wind a bit more, with some steep hairpins peaking out at 15%, for a further 7 kms.

Looking across to "Mt. Doom" from Lord of the Rings was breathtaking.

Tried to capture a couple of shots of some of the hairpins for the #theperfecthairpin theme going on on Twitter at the moment.

Met Chile from California who had parked her car to get out and take a couple of pictures with 2 kms to go so we did that "if you take my picture then I'll take yours" thing that lone travelers will be familiar with.

From there it wasn't long before I was up at the ski station. Unfortunately they'd decided this morning due to the bad weather to close the chairlift up to the ski slopes and New Zealand's highest café, thus avoiding the "what do you mean I can't take my bike up the chairlift, it's sports equipment just like skis & snowboards" discussion ;)

So I made do with a coffee in the café here then psyched myself up for the attempt at cycling down the 13 kms faster than anyone has before (at least those 66 people who have logged their rides on Strava).

Came up short with a 3rd place overall, averaging over 53 kph. I blame the off road tyres and strong headwind on the final 4 kms, but it's not important ;)

From the bottom I then had the easy 10 kms back to National Park, with a couple of photo stops on the way.

A glorious 45 km ride in beautiful weather and awesome scenery.

Back down at National Park I had a quick coffee, packed away the bike then set off for tonight's destination, Ohura.

Already two people have asked me "why the hell are you going there?" as soon as I've revealed my plans to stay in Ohura. This was actually one of the first destinations I pencilled in when starting to piece together a rough plan around New Zealand a few months ago. I'm a regular customer and fan of Rapha, the cycling clothing company. On their website about 6-9 months ago they'd featured a reportage on a ride done by a group of Australian cyclists who had ridden the "Forgotten Highway" route and who'd stayed over in Ohura. Their report was both fascinating and inspiring, so I decided to copy much of their route, though in the opposite direction.

Where possible I've been taking the "road less traveled" - back roads, some of them even with gravel stretches, rather than the main roads and today was no exception. It always pays off with the traffic free roads and stunning scenery you get as a reward.

The final 25 kms of the route into Ohura were among the most idyllic I've seen yet. It's like stepping back years into an unspoilt country, with the old coal rail line running beside the road and the river and with the farmers out working their flocks in traditional fashion.

It was a bit after 6pm when I reached Ohura and here things only got better. The "Rapha" group had stayed overnight in the old State Prison which had closed down in 2006 and been re-opened a couple of years later as a restaurant with accommodation. Things didn't look like they were going too well for the prison when I arrived - it looked totally deserted and was obviously up for sale - despite them having confirmed my online booking.

I rang a few bells then went into the village (here I'm really stretching the definition) to find a phone box as there is no mobile coverage within 100 kms of here.

No joy, so just as I was thinking about heading south and trying to find somewhere 50 - 100 kms from here I spotted an elderly guy out walking. He referred me to the guy behind the bar in the "Cossie" - The Cosmopolitan Club - the only place in the village with any signs of life. Shane called Donna who arranged to meet me at the prison in 10 minutes. So pretty soon I was "checked in" and back at the Cossie where Shane knocked me up some dinner as we chatted a bit about the history of what has now become the "ghost town" of Ohura.

According to the sign, the sale period for the prison expires tomorrow, so if whoever buys it doesn't continue to use it for accommodation then I'll be the last person to stay here for a while.